Journey to the Top - The Golden Mountain of Bangkok
One of Bangkok’s oldest Buddhist temple, Wat Saket is in Pom Prap Sattru Phai district, just outside the old Rattanakosin island area. The beginning of this temple can be traced back to the Ayutthaya period, which lasted until 1767. During that time, it was known as Wat Sakae. It subsequently underwent a major refurbishment during the reign of the King Rama I. Presently, the temple is more popularly known as Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount as it sits on a man-made hill crowned with a gleaming golden chedi (pagoda) amidst the temple ground, which is adorned with mature trees and various religious structures found in a typical Buddhist temple. The eighty-meter-high hill, which was once one of the highest points in Bangkok, serves as a pilgrimage site for Buddhists and one of the Bangkok's famous landmarks for tourists.
The chronological records of the Golden Mount speak of the origin of the monolith during the reign of the King Rama III (1787–1851). During this period, the construction of the hill hit a dead end after the large chedi collapsed due to the soft soil it was standing on. The task was left abandoned over the following few decades. Fortunately, the hill was revived again under the reign of the King Rama IV and completed in its current form under the King Rama V's reign (1853–1910). For most foreign tourists, Wat Saket is a chedi on the artificial hill. Accessy to this area is relatively easy since the path is paved. To reach to the top, however, one needs to climb three hundred eighteen (not too steep) steps. Late afternoon today, I decided to visit the temple to shoot views of the canal and the Ban Panthom area as part of a video documentary I am currently producing with my fellow Field School participants. It took me less than fifteen minutes to climb the hill. There were several spots to take breaks.
Along the way to the top, I saw statues of the Mother Earth squeezing her hair, which is known to the locals as Phra Mae Thorani Beeb Muay Phom. According to the legend of the Buddha, when he was meditating under the Bodhi Tree, a demon attempted to disturb and stop him from reaching enlightenment. Phra Mae Thorani
then helped the Buddha by twisting her long hair to wash away the demon.
Once I neared the top of the hill, I could see a set of bells on the landing between the flight of steps. I was told to ring the bells as it is thought that ringing them would bring good luck. Although, the best thing for me was to get the panoramic view of the city from the summit that was truly breathtaking.
The temple complex has many trees and typical Buddhist religious structures such as the main temple, ordination hall, and library. Wat Saket in general is a remarkable temple and boasts an interesting rich history. And of course, the Golden Mount itself with its elaborate spiral steps, spectacular views of the city, gilded stupa with Buddhist relics makes it worth a visit on my current visit to the ‘City of Angels’ to participate in the “Urban Heritage and Community Development International Field School” currently undergoing in Bangkok.